Fashion then&now: Civil War

When we think of Civil War fashion instantly the chivalrous Rhett Butler and classic beauty Scarlett O'Hara. However, this is a misconception...

Due to the enormous amounts of pressure placed on women in the Civil War era, women were often taught to conform to cultural norms of society, fashion included. To deviate from the latest fashions of the period meant that you were less of a lady, and avant guarde fashion was undesirable. Women who followed the latest trends were said to be of high class and of wealth. 

During this time period, an accentuated waistline highlighted women’s femininity. Like prior periods throughout history, corsets were  worn during this time period because the dresses worn were already designed to highlight the small waist, though if blessed with a small waist women did not wear them.

The typical Civil War Belle sported jewel necklines with hoop skirts and extremely wide and full skirts. Many times, women would wear straw bonnets out in public while shopping the market place, and at formal events such as church and dancing events, gloves were worn. In the South, tanned skin implied lower class, so women wore very large sun bonnets on their heads when going out of doors to protect against the slightest amount of sunlight getting to their skin, and they wore cotton gloves, even in the summer, for the same reason.

The most used garment of the time period were wool, cloth, linen, cotton with linings of lace. For the pattern of the fabric, the color scheme was very simple with a dull palate. Since it was war time, everything was made in the home, and often times garments were cut up and reused so as to follow the latest trends without having to spend a dime. Plaids and striped prints were surprisingly popular as well and, as an extra touch, women would often use different colored ribbon to tie their bonnets over their heads to block out the blistering sun.

Typical attire by layer: (can't believe we complain about dressing ourselves)

Layer 1
* Drawers (underpants) made of cotton or linen and trimmed with lace
* Chemise (long undershirt) usually made of linen
* Stockings held up with garters

Layer 2
* Corset or stays stiffened with whale bone
* Crinoline, hoop skirt, or 1 or 2 petticoats (dark color if traveling due to mud and dirt)

Layer 3
* Petticoat bodice, corset cover, or camisole

Layer 4
* Bodice
* Skirt, often held up with "braces" (suspenders)
* Belt
* Slippers made of satin, velvet, done in knit, or crochet

Layer 5 (outerwear for leaving the house)
* Shawl, jacket, or mantle
* Gloves or mitts
* Button up boots
* Parasol
* Bonnet or hat
* Bag or purse
* Handkerchief
* Fan sometimes made of sandalwood
* Watch pocket 

Influence today:

Though we may not still wear giant hoop skirts or petticoats and THANK THE GODS corsets there are still small influences in today's fashion from that era.

Hoop skirts as seen in picture one with the cinched waist, number two is the modern day version of Scarlett O'Hara infamous red dress, and the high neckline of the third photo resembles the military uniform of the Civil War. 

 Classic. 

Group Blog: Paige Parker, Demi Stanley, Torey Barth, & Breely Ungar